We change our plans to relax for the day in Calgary, when my friends invite us to accompany them on a brief holiday at Fairmont Hot Springs across the border in eastern British Columbia. They head off in the late morning, we follow four or five hours behind them. More rain. Cold rain. Thick grey mists veil the peaks. Glaciers reflect the cloud cover. But the deep blues and greens of mountain country are still beautiful. A magnificent elk gallops toward us beside the highway, its antlers a thing of beauty, its nostrils blowing out hot steam. It moves with purpose. I sense my daughter’s unease and tension and wavering sense of purpose as we near the coast.

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